Friday, 31 July 2009

sights & sounds

10 of my favourite reads this week:

  • it was previously balmain v primark, now it's balmain v bebe! ~ [redcarpet fashionawards]


happy weekends
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it's finally here!!! mr hare fall winter 2009


mr hare was first featured on this blog back in december 2008, and since then readers have been leaving very positive comments, and emailing me to see if i know when the shoes will be available. after eight l00o00ng months of waiting, IT'S HERE!!!! click on pics above, or here for more ordering information. they do ship internationally.

never had i been more excited about a designer's debut collection. one can really feel his effort and love. to use his words, these are "shoes you can attach some romance to." right now, i just want to romance them all.

"hey thompson, doing anything this weekend? fancy coming round to mine?"


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Thursday, 30 July 2009

backstage at neil barrett spring 2010

more backstage pics at neil barrett taken by me during milan fashion week, which seems like a l00o00ng time ago now.

this sounds odd, but i am not looking forward to friday nor the coming weekend. i wish time would stood still for a moment. just for a little moment.

Wednesday, 29 July 2009

project "save the day"

photographer corinne day was one of the first few who discovered kate moss more than a decade ago. famous for documenting the rawness of her subjects, corinne also led a tumultuous life: she's been seeking treatment for her brain tumour for more than 10 years now, but to not much success. a fund raising drive is now in place to help get her into a specialist clinic in arizona.

previously unreleased, the above pic taken back in 1993 will be printed in limited editions of 300, each signed by kate moss and authenticated by corinne day. each 5" x 7" picture costs £100 and all proceeds go to corinne day. [bigger pic here]

to purchase or for more information, please email emily@premiermodelmanagement.com.


i think it's a wonderful investment and good initiative. let's save the day.

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prada menswear fall winter 2009

one of my favourite campaigns to date, and i love it that hedi slimane continued the black and white moody shots from the previous season into this fall winter collection. my sensible side is telling me not to go near the studded shirts, but those are achingly beautiful. blending soft and hard to perfection.

i heart the new prada menswear direction.


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reid prebenda at neil barrett spring summer 2010

reid prebenda from red models, backstage and in action at neil barrett spring summer 2010. he said that's her sister, if so good genes definitely run in the family.


Tuesday, 28 July 2009

you say go slowly, i fall behind

i thought shoes above £300 is considered dear, but with the weak stirling the fall winter collections from european designers just got even pricier. dries van noten black tassle loafers, £415 from browns.

oh and i like that vest, or the way it is pinned.


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we can be heroes, just for one day

might as well start the wishlist now: cardigan from burberry prorsum spring summer 2010.
i heart.


Monday, 27 July 2009

the september "issue"

.: just how fashion forward is japan? this is the only september 2009 vogue cover i've found. model iris strubegger for vogue nippon september 2009 :.

while most of the fashion world await with bated breath for anna wintour's documentary/film "the september issue" (a behind the scenes look at how the september issue of US vogue magazine was curated), there exist a real "september issue" out there: ad revenues for this september's issue is down materially as compared to 2008. banks lost money, economy tightens, people lost jobs, consumers spent less, retail industry hard hit, retailers spent less on advertising to cut costs, magazines' ad revenues decline.


.: ad pages statistics, wwd.com :.

according to wwd.com, the number of advertorial pages taken out by retailers had fallen for most magazines. vogue's ad pages fell by about 37%, GQ fell by about 32%. these are the main source of income for magazines, and the september issue is traditionally jam packed with advertising. the issue goes on sale around 1st week of august, the time where retailers' discounting on previous season had ended and new collections in store.

magazine's circulation
retailers' reluctance to spend on print advertising is also partly due to reduced magazines circulation. vogue UK sells about 220,000 copies per month, french vogue 133,000 copies and US vogue at 1.2 million. UK's another magazine sells about 70,000 per half yearly issue (12mb if you download pdf doc). when i was in milan, someone said to me that one of the "popular" mens magazine in the UK sells about 7,000 copies per month. and i say this humbly, my blog has more hits per week than that.

when was the last time you bought a fashion/lifestyle magazine? mine was 3 months ago.

.: another magazine, issue spring summer 2009 :.

advertising costs
just how much does it costs to advertise? if i interpret this correctly, it costs US$128,220 for a one page advert at US vogue (i hate to think that's a monthly rate but then again they sell 1.2mil copies per month). another magazine charges £13,005 per page (12mb if you download pdf doc). now you know why there are so many adverts in our magazines.

and then there's the gradual shift towards online advertising. people want instant gratification, they can't wait till the end of the month for a hard copy magazine. vogue UK charges "£35 pcm" for a standard banner. pcm stands for per 1,000 views. so it is significantly cheaper to advertise online. but a "standard banner" only measures 468 x 60, which is this big:


and then there's the free publicity from blogs and forums, which shouldn't be underestimated. but the problem being it's free, retailers don't have much control over the end product appearing on blogs/websites. but i always believe there's no such thing as bad publicity, only no publicity.

change, that's probably the only thing constant about this economy. not waging a war against magazines, but i find it interesting, how behavioral patterns change. that said, i do look forward to "the september issue", anna wintour's documentary that is.


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Sunday, 26 July 2009

n-e-o-n

we need to let our hair down and have a bit of fun once in a while.
diesel flash for fun.


reminiscing & then some

sunday is for reminiscing balenciaga's archives. if any of these turn up on ebay or yoox, please let me know.

2007 was a glorious year isn't it.


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Friday, 24 July 2009

red & blue


boys could have fun with sequins too. martin margiela sequined sneakers, £165.

just a size too big. pierre hardy red suede shoes, was £190, now £78!

happy weekends to all.


Thursday, 23 July 2009

hermès financial results for first half of 2009

hermès recently released their financial results for the first 6 months of 2009. i'll try and keep the analysis light and easy to read, as it is afterall for the blog. headline number reads that overall sales were 7.6% higher as compared to same period in 2008. sounds impressive, especially if you consider the first 6 months to be one of the most difficult periods for retailers. let's break it down by components and see what's driving the increase.



"distribution via the hermès exclusive network" refers to business lines which they have direct control of, mostly from sales in their own stores (non concessions). as expected, main revenue generator came from leathergoods division, although other core areas which they are also famous for, silk and RTW, recorded positive growth too. stripping away exchange rate movements, leathergoods division is the sole performer with 15.7% increase in sales. a little more on why i think leathergoods did well later.

"distribution via specialist outlets" refers to businesses where they have less control of. these would relate to wholesales of perfume, tableware, watches etc, to departmental stores and specialist shops. the buoyant sales from their leathergoods division was being marred by the significant drop in the wholesale division. in times like this, departmental stores cut down on their shopping budget and try to manage their inventory better. they would be more selective, and bought less for their stores. this was actually in line with other retailers' forecasts. burberry predicted a 25% decrease in wholesales for this period, and recorded a similar level of decrease in their recent financial results release.

"other products" refers to other product lines, mainly john lobb and other activities. unsurprisingly sales fell 40%, rational behaviour suggests that consumers would cut back on spending £700+ on a pair of shoes at times like this (probably the gents as john lobb does more mens shoes. rational behaviour do not apply to ladies and their louboutins!).

excluding exchange rate movements (to compare like for like), overall sales was down 0.4%, still very impressive considering the climate we are in. the decrease was attributable to lower wholesales, when the economy recovers, this would improve too. so they are actually very well positioned at current times.



let's look at which regions were contributing to their sales this year. to compare like for like with 2008, all regions experienced negative growith, except non-japan asia. surprised? in my previous analysis to look at LVMH's first quarter's results, they recorded the same trends: declining sales across most product lines except leathergoods, and all regions faced declining sales except asia. the tiger's appetite sure isn't waning.

so why does leathergoods division do so well contradicting most people's theory that luxury goods industry will suffer during this economic crunch?

in my humble opinion, those that will weather this storm, are those who adopt changes in their strategies and product offerings. i believe the top end of luxury goods will do well, as they are a low volume high margin business. a small drop in number of shoppers should not impact their sales materially.

hermès opened 5 new shops during the year, increasing retail space. perhaps for the first time in many years, we are seeing birkins and kellys readily available for sale in their shops, as opposed to the myth of a long waiting list. being able to control their inventory is a key strength, releasing more bags at passive economic times, and back to the waiting list when demand turns bearish.

the introduction of lower priced bags, like the 40cm "paris bombay", also helped to boost revenues at hermès, while enabling customers to "live the hermès dream".

consumers doesn't just stop spending at times like these, they cut back on frivolous products, things we can live without. hence we see dip in sales for perfumes, tablewares as we can live without them. people cut back on taxi rides, they eat out less and stay home more (domino's pizza delivery recorded 25% increase in sales!), but people need gratification.

a hermès bag is a trophy item, a reward to oneself, a luxury indulgence we carry out once in a while. maybe a rational consumer will cut back from 2 bags a year to 1, but he/she justifies it as a reward and endurance of the times we are in. the consumer will choose wisely, and rational behaviour suggests a more classic item that will last for several seasons, one that is less likely to provoke unnecessary accusations of wealth flaunt. hence the classic hermès bags, with minimal branding, does so well in this climate.

whoever said luxury lost it's lustre? at times like this, the divide between luxury and mediocrity becomes wider. true luxury survives the test of time.

i love doing this post, i hope you enjoy reading too.



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Wednesday, 22 July 2009

diesel spring summer 2010

car crash and a pair of diesel spring summer 2010 trainers. yes very bizarre but that is all part of the diesel showcase in milan. a few more pics to come...

lust & then some


is it me, or shoes just getting more expensive these days? ysl suede & leather lace ups, £490 from matchesfashion.com

four hundred and ninety pounds.
but.i.like.a.lot.a.lot


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Tuesday, 21 July 2009

3.1 phillip lim fall winter 2009 menswear accessories

i lust!!!!


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"the sartorialist" by scott schuman


everyone's favourite street style photographer is coming out with a book. aptly titled "the sartorialist", scott schuman compiled his favourite images into this 512 page book. the paperback version is available for pre-order at an attractive price of US$16.50. there's also a deluxe hard copy version, more details via selectism.



i hesitated for the longest time if i should post this picture, but this seems apt now. i saw scott outside the versace teatro, and mustered the courage to speak to him. oddly enough, i asked about his book, if he is coming to london for the launch. and how embarrassing, my lens was smudged, as can be seen on the other versace pics.

i hope his book does well. i wish him all the best.

Monday, 20 July 2009

gareth pugh menswear fall winter 2009

gareth pugh, one of britain's rising stars, debuted his menswear collection during paris fashion week back in jan this year. formidable i thought, for a relative newbie to present a formal show in paris. it later emerged that LVMH financed the show, and since then there were rumors all round that he will next take over dior homme.

if LVMH spotted a talent, then we should all sit up and take notice. in my humble opinion, bags of talent is one thing, ability to translate that into sales is another.

that said, i do like the t-shirt and pleated leather jacket. click on pic for more details.


a few accessories from burberry prorsum menswear spring 2010


sometimes items are featured on the runway show but it doesn't make it to the shop floor. i hope these bags make it into production, they are just the right size for daily use. i am for all things military so these bags tick all my boxes.

on the runway:


and the vintage chelsea boots as featured above:

i heart heart heart.

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Sunday, 19 July 2009

is there money in luxury goods and fashion?

when i was in paris last weekend, the newsstands were selling the above magazine. i thought to myself "wow they kissed and made up?", and i realised it was a photoshopped pic. i wanted to get the magazine but there wasn't an english international edition.

two names we must know (L T R): bernault arnault of LVMH, françois pinault of PPR.

in the annual compilation of france's richest, astoundingly four of the top ten made their wealth from the luxury goods industry:


- no.2: bernard arnault, worth €14.58bn. he held top spot last year but dropped a place as shares in LVMH took a little tumble this year. LVMH has controlling stakes in louis vuitton, givenchy, dior, loewe, moet hennessy etc


- no.4: hermès family, worth €7.68bn. above: jean-louis duma-hermès and daughter sandrine. there are no signs of a slow down at hermès. they are opening a factory on the outskirts of paris to train more craftsmen, and they also bought a crocodile farm to rear their own to meet soaring demands. what credit crunch?


- no. 6: françois pinault, worth €4.95bn. above: françois pinault jr, salma hayek-pinault, françois pinault sr. PPR has controlling stakes in amongst others, puma and gucci group, which in turn controls gucci, bottega veneta, YSL, balenciaga, mcqueen, stella mccartney etc.


- no. 10: alain wertheimer & family, worth €3.5bn. not many knew that chanel is actually privately owned, and it's brothers alain and gerard wertheimer that controls it.





i love more than fashion.